A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO LEAF PEEPING
Date: October 2019
Publication: The Scribner Hollow Post: Volume 3
Fall in the Catskills is an unparalleled splendor. The trees become brilliant bursts of yellow, orange, and red hues, a landscape of colorful potpourri that delights our eyes and captures our hearts. “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower,” said Albert Camus, and the pastime of leaf peeping (an informal term for viewing and photographing leaves), has become a sort of recreational sport, with passionate peepers from the Northeast and abroad descending upon the hamlets and mountain towns of upstate New York for a chance to set sights ablaze at nature’s greatest show. I spoke with Woodstock native, Andrew Koehn, the garden grounds manager at Scribner’s Catskill Lodge, about fall in Catskills. Exceedingly jovial and gregarious, Koehn’s knowledge tumbled out in short spurts and murmurs as he plucked, clipped and arranged florals for a wedding that was taking place at the lodge that day. Below are his recommendations for ways to experience that special time of year when “nature goes out with a bang.” No matter your chosen activity or vantage, the requirements for leaf peeping are refreshingly simple: a pair of eyes, presence, and an appreciation for the awesome beauty of the natural world. Happy gazing.
A Scenic Drive
Drive from Scribner’s Catskill Lodge along route 23A from Hunter to Palenville for a breathtaking view of the changing leaves. “It’s state land, and the trees come down to the edge of the highway,” says Koehn. Not far down the road, as you maneuver along hairpin turns, you’ll come upon Kaaterskill Falls, which at 260 feet tall, is one of the highest waterfalls in New York State. They’ve been a celebrated source of inspiration for many an artist, author, poet and writer — from painter Thomas Cole, founder of the Hudson River School of Art, to author Washington Irving who canonized the falls in his novel “Rip Van Winkle.” Get out of your car and closer to the falls by taking the 1.4 mile moderate round trip hike where you’ll also have views of nearby Bastian Falls.
In The Forest
For a more immersive experience of the fall foliage, head to Overlook Mountain, a 4.6 mile moderate hike near Woodstock, NY. As you ascend, be sure to explore the now-abandoned hallways and rooms of Overlook Mountain House (not the one from “The Shining,” the other one), a once-luxury hotel that closed in the late 1930s after wealthy clientele no longer ventured to the Catskills to vacation. It remains one of the only examples of historic hotels in the region, as most were torn down so the materials could be used for scrap. After passing Overlook Mountain House, you’ll reach the summit another half mile down the old carriage road. Climb the fire tower for incredible views of the Hudson River, Ashokan Reservoir and the Catskill Mountains on a clear day. “The view is breathtaking once you get to the top,” says Koehn. “A hike that gives you all the photo ops, that’s a hike for you.” A cautionary note: The trail runs directly through rattlesnake habitat, so be mindful where you step!
Picnic Please!
Take 23C north from Tannersville to East Jewitt. There, off Country Route 7B, is the beautiful Colgate Lake. Park in the big lot just down the road and haul your picnic accoutrements to a spot that provides you ample room to leisurely gaze at the majestic mountains before you. “It’s not an overwhelming space, but you feel like you can feel the mountains,” says Koehn. Want a quiet experience? Go midweek. And, for picnic supplies, stop at Circle W General Store in Palenville, where local produce, award-winning coffee and famed deli sandwiches are available and aplenty.
Dinner With A View
There’s not a more enjoyable way to experience the blazing colors of fall, than by sipping a hot toddy at Scribner’s own Prospect restaurant. The wraparound cedar deck provides a stunning scenescape of Hunter Mountain. “The deck puts you right there,” says Koehn. “And you’ll see the leaves, no matter the weather.” Enjoy a seasonal menu featuring specialties from Scribner’s garden, (managed by Koehn, of course) and revel in the majestic mountain views.
Look And Learn
For those who wish to admire the leaves while immersing themselves in New York history, head to Olana, Frederick Church’s Estate in Hudson, NY. Church, a painter of the Hudson River School, was also a seasoned traveler and landscape architect. “He took the landscape and rebuilt it,” says Koehn. “It’s like he [Church] thought — I’m going to create this vista and you’ll never know it’s handmade. It’s a pretty groovy house.” Explore the series of terraces and balconies in the main house if you’d like stunning views of the 250-acre naturalistic landscape. You can also stroll along the carriage roads, tour the flower garden, and even walk across the Hudson River Skywalk, which connects the homes and studios of the major Hudson River School artists via the Rip Van Winkle Bridge.
Spot These Leaves
When we think of Autumn in New York, the bulk of the color that people associate with the season comes from maple trees, which are native to the Catskill region. For a spectacular view of the maples, take route 214 from Scribner’s as if you’re going towards Phoenicia. There, about a few minutes into your drive, you’ll see four ridges come together. “There’s groves of maple in them,” says Koehn. See if you can spot Koehn’s favorites:
Sugar maple
“You get the yellows and
oranges, it’s the standby.”
Red maple
“You get these blistering hot
reds and they’re really sort
of the first big hit.”
I SPY...
Moose maple, an understory species that grows under the canopy of larger trees, is one of the last trees to lose its leaves. Also known as Striped maple or Goosefoot maple, you can spot a Moose maple because its leaves are tremendous, shaped like giant goose feet, and turn a lemon yellow towards the end of the fall season. The young bark is striped in green and white, and when it ages, brown. See if you can identify a Moose maple as you hike and explore the Catskills.